Would like to know why my car want start after replacing fuel pump,filter and fuel relay?

I have a 1987 Buick Lesabre Custom.I replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter,and fuel relay.After I finish installing all the parts I turned the ignition switch and my car started right up.I did this job Sunday October 22,2006.Since then my car has not been able to start up and the battery keeps running down.Can some one tell me why I am not able to start my car or why the battery keeps running down,The car has a full tank of gas?Never did lose any gas from changing out the fuel filter or fuel pump.I have done what the answers that the guys gave me on this site and My father installed all the parts for me on my car he retired as a ASE Master Mechanic 48yrs as a mechanice and in the business.I went back and check the wiring for the fuel pump and it installed correctly and I changed out the fuel relays cause they are 20 yrs old.I have done everything that the guys here suggested that I do and the car still want start.Anymore suggestion?

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7 Responses to “Would like to know why my car want start after replacing fuel pump,filter and fuel relay?”

  1. badtothebone said:

    sounds like air in the system, you need to prime the system, and check all electrical.

  2. no name 95 said:

    check the Alternator

  3. dutch said:

    If you checked the wiring and you have voltage to the pump-and its not running -its a bad pump.If it is running-check the pressure relief valve.

  4. Caitie B said:

    might be a short to the fuel pump

  5. Wil T said:

    I’d be interested to know why you replased those parts in the first place. Did you have starting problems before?
    I gather the car is cranking but not starting.
    Check the distributor, wires, plugs to make sure everything is connected.

  6. Ironhand said:

    If you have already re-checked the pump wiring, forget about it being the source of your problem, and start th diagnostics fresh.
    Is the PCM fuse blown?
    is the fuel pump fuse blown?
    While there is still some battery power left (unless it has already gone COMPLETELY dead), retrieve the diagnostic codes from the computer.
    For a discussion of the procedure, along with illustration and a list of definitions, go here——>

    http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-23.htm

    …and scroll down below the definitions for the procedure.
    If there are codes displayed, follow the proper diagnosis and repair procedures recommended for the circuit, and don’t assume that a code for a MAP sensor is NECESSARILY a defective MAP sensor. It COULD very well be a broken vacuum line To the sensor.
    When you turn the key to “Run” without starting it, can you hear a “HUM” from the tank area? You should be able to hear it for 1 – 2 seconds after the key is turned on, then it will stop unless the engine is running.
    Is there spark from the ignition coil when the engine is cranking?
    If there is the “HUM” is there pressure at the test port?
    If there is fuel, but no spark, check for the pulses at the injectors while it is cranking. If there are no pulses, and no spark, (or only one of the two) check for a failed cam/crank sensor at the front of the engine. Very Common failure for this vintage G.M. product.
    As for the battery not holding a charge, the best thing you can do (AFTER finding the cause of not running) is to disconnect the battery and install a test light between the cable and the post. If there is a substantial draw, the light will illuminate. With that connection made, begin to remove the fuses ONE at a TIME and watch the light. When the light changes ( or goes out) that is the circuit you need to address for the cause of draining the battery.
    This should give you plenty to do and give you some direction for the repair. Your dad’s expertise will direct the rest of the diagnosis and repair.

    Good Luck

  7. Stefania Haugen said:

    Ive beed racking my brains searching for this info….. much more than anything else,would like to read the reviews keep us posted




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